When you step off the bus in Bacalar, you will be faced with a dusty motorway lined with ramshackle shops and restaurants- not the 'lagoon of seven colours' you were promised. But don't get back on the bus just yet, hidden just twenty minutes away is Bacalar's stunning lake. Famous for its seven distinct shades of blue, you can cruise, snorkel or kayak from the almost-black of Cenote Negra to the crystal clear waters of the Pirates' Canal.

Known to Mayans as the 'place surrounded by reeds where the sky is born', Bacalar is a great place to relax, earning it a firm spot on the so-called 'Gringo Trail'. During my time in Bacalar, I visited private lagoons, went on a boat tour, danced at the Yak Lake House and ate my weight in tamales, read on to find out what you could discover at this up- and-coming destination. 

Hanging Out

Unfortunately, many areas of the lake cannot be accessed without paying to enter a private dock. Though the free options are few and often slightly dilapidated, they are much quieter than their neighbours. I preferred to relax at the boardwalk to the left of Papitos, a local restaurant. I went there a few times to watch the sunrise, swim and people-watch as kayakers and sailboats glided past in the unforgiving afternoon sun. Given the high temperatures and suncream ban in the lake, visitors often take home a sunburn souvenir, so it's better to visit the docks at sunrise or sunset. Even still, it's easy to enjoy Bacalar in the safety of a long-sleeved top.

Another option for relaxing by the lake is to visit one of the many lagoons outside the main town. There are many popular options, including Los Rápidos, an area where naturally strong currents form rapids that push visitors down a thin channel conveniently lined by a bar. However, my hostel receptionist advised against this option as the owners reportedly do little to converse the lake's delicate ecosystem. Instead, I visited Laguna Bonzana and Sac Ha. Although less convenient to get to and with little refreshments on site, these spots were much more tranquil than the party vibes of Los Rápidos and I happily passed whole days relaxing by the lake. 

Laguna Bonanza 

This lagoon was a quiet spot, about twenty minutes in a taxi out of the town. When we arrived it was my friend and I, a couple of local families and one or two groups of fellow tourists. Without crowds, I truly recharged my batteries from the long bus journey to Bacalar, reading, swimming and chatting in the shade surrounding this secluded spot.

That was until the afternoon when we hired a kayak and headed over to Los Rápidos to see what all the fuss was about. 

The way there was hot but smooth. Parking up the kayak, I was shocked at how beautiful the rapids looked, with clear water lined by 'cocalitos', or circular rock-like formations formed by calcium in the water.

We swam in the stream and were surprised how quickly this natural rollercoaster picked us up. I loved floating along the beautiful stream and wished we could stay a little longer than the 30 minutes we allowed.

However, the way back was not so breezy. Against the current in 35-degree heat, we fought to reach Laguna Bonanza. I was very grateful that my friend was an experienced kayaker, but even she was exhausted by the time we reached the shore.

So, when some other friends suggested we kayak in Sac Han lagoon, I refused, preferring to save my energy to read, journal and swim.

Sac Ha 

This lagoon was much more open than Laguna Bonanza, with a huge expanse of light blue water leading out to the main lake, broken only by a few cocalitos and mangroves.

Alongside the entry fee, you had to pay extra to hire a hammock or other seating. There was also space to lay down a towel and relax by the lake if you're stingy like me. Further down the shore, there was also a little hut serving cold drinks and snacks. 

I highly recommend venturing out of town to find these quiet, comfortable spots to enjoy the lake. Not only is it a great way to relax, but allows the beauty of the lake to truly soak in.

The Boat Tour

Another way to see the lake is to hop onto one of many boat tours. Each follows a similar route, but pricing depends on the type of boat, length of tour and the benefits offered. We chose a tour that set off from Papitos bar after it was recommended by a fellow traveller and soon found ourselves piling into a small motor boat, setting off to explore the lake. 

Our first stop was Pirate's Canal. A shallow area where hopeful investors set up Bacalar's first restaurant in the 1970s. After the restaurant's decline, the concrete shipwreck has been covered in colourful graffiti, providing a stark contrast to the bright blue of the water.

Once anchored, we jumped into the extremely shallow water and set about exploring the tapestry of blue around us. 

After Pirate's Canal, we headed to the other side of the lake to look at the cenotes, Cenote Negra and Cenote Azul. These cenotes were very different from the ones I'd seen in Valladolid as they were underwater, their depths dictating just one of the lake's dramatic colour changes.

Our guide told us stories of witches and sea monsters believed to live in the lake, before promptly giving us snorkels to find them for ourselves. However, the highlight of this stop was snacking on fresh fruit and Tajín while taking in the beautiful surroundings.

I heard our final stop before I saw it- Bird Island. The shriek of hundreds of birds screaming in unison made me feel like I was in a tropical horror film. But, once I got over the bird's deafening chorus, I enjoyed spotting pelicans, stalks and cormorants from the safety of our motorboat.

Bacalar Town

The shining star of Bacalar is the lake but there are gems to be found in the surrounding town too. It was quiet but welcoming, with a laid-back vibe, good food and friendly people. The buildings were covered in bright, quirky street art often featuring local animals and I loved spotting new murals around every corner. 

After a long day on the lake, the central plaza was the place to go for food. I loved Mr. Taco for their 22 peso chickpea and cactus tacos, as well as the tamale cart that toured the town centre every evening offering vegetable, plantain, and meat tamales. If you're not familiar, tamales are a typical Latin American dish of vegetables or meat wrapped in steamed corn dough. No matter what you eat, a Mexican meal must be washed down with agua fresca, a refreshing drink comprised of diluted fruit. 

Going Out Out

If you're sick of cheap beer in the hostel common area, there are a few places to go out in Bacalar and Wednesday is the best day to do it.

That's because the Yak Lake House Hostel hosts a weekly neon party, complete with free drinks, dance music and of course, neon body paint.

It seemed like every backpacker in Bacalar had descended on the hostel's lakeside courtyard to chat and dance. I must admit that the amount of Brits there made it feel like I had been teleported back to Leeds, but there's a reason they call it the Gringo Trail.

My friends and I enjoyed the party but moved on when the main event got shut down by police at 1:30 a.m. Then, we headed to another nearby club which played music much more to my taste, a.k.a almost every song from Bad Bunny's new album.

After a few hours of screaming along to reggaeton's finest, we headed back to the hostel. However, it took a while longer than I expected as we came across multiple stray dogs barking wildly, guarding their streets and forcing us off course.

The Next Tulum?

Many commented that Bacalar was set on the same trajectory as Tulum, slowly turning from a hippie hotspot to a party-centric Instagram hangout, and it's not hard to see why.

Free piers are few and far between, with paid lake clubs taking up most of the shoreline. In the town, many upmarket shops selling expensive 'hippie' style clothes have popped up alongside boutique hotels and bars.

Although I enjoyed the Yak party, I would hate to think I was contributing to a growing touristy vibe in this beautiful town. Hopefully, the party stays restricted to Wednesday nights and it doesn't become an overdeveloped party town like Tulum. 

So, if you decide to visit, make sure to support local businesses, be respectful of local people and stick to the environmental rules so that many more generations can enjoy Mexico's last beach haven on their way to Belize.